Pender Island
An Unexpected Landing
Views from Pender Island
Pender Island, isn’t a very well known part of Canada, yet the way residents view the tourists coming through, one would think it was a major destination like her sister island a short ferry ride away. Salt Spring.
I had never heard of the island when I landed for a job here, some 2 years ago. After a short phone interview and contract agreement, I google mapped it. A ferry ride from Victoria, taking just under an hour was my best option. Other routs meant a trip to Vancouver City, or island hopping from Mill Bay to Salt Spring, possibly to Main Island as well before arriving at Pender.
Pender Island, is a relativly small island in the gulf between Vancouver Island, and the mainland of British Columbia, Canada. The residing community of some 2,500 people share the lush, hilly space with small roe deer, bald eagles, otters and seals. Protected whale lanes are dotted out on most maps displaying the island, showing the split into North and South, where it’s connected by a single lane wooden bridge that’s seemingly always due for construction.
My first time on the Island, I lived and worked on the Southern part. My days were spent wandering the boardwalks of the Enchanted Forest (Yes, that’s the real name), Hiking to and fro about the cliffs of Brooks Point via golden fields while towering trees overshadowed the narrow, much patched, undulating roadways. Several of which are lined with flower stands, farmers stalls, animals and craft wares. There’s little to no room for a bike, yet bikers there are, alone with one character riding along a moterized unicycle.
This summer, I’m on the far more populous North Island, where the heart of the community pumps. Farmers markets, art shows, comedy events and boating adventures. All have fliers on the community board. The ports and bays all fill with yhats and sail boats. Power and speed rocking in the bay alongside luxurious comfort vessels.
The largest vessel I ever saw, was also one of the most distastefully hideous. I can forgive some small amount of ugliness, overlooking it as much as the next person. However the sheer size of it’s existence made it rather difficult to ignore, even if the design hadn’t been so garish to behold.
They make for wonderful drawing practice, boats. There are several spots about the island where I enjoy going with my books and pencils. Sketching the boats sailing by.
It’s beautiful, remote, a little difficult to get to, and very pricy. The gas, the groceries, the hotel rooms. For a van-lifer, the favored option is to find employment with one of the resorts, farms or homesteads, in exchange for a spot to park and basic amenities. The single night stays, the trail entrances and quieter ocean access points are rarely patrolled by the 2 cruisers on island. Especially on the Southern Island. Rarely, does not mean never.
Locals here seem to greet one another by inquiring about the latest ferry ride. The ferries, are typically an hour late during high summer, but you still need to arrive an hour before the projected sail time to ensure a spot on the quickly filling vessel. Once, I purchased a flight to Vancouver, from Port Washington, a wooden dock attached to a decrepit inn which was possibly abandoned and haunted before I was born.
Pender Island, the Greenest place on Canada I’ve ever seen. The whales, crashing waves and light houses. Especially when backed by an oncoming storm. It’s a beautiful place to run away to, when the world feels like all too much.
